![]() ![]() Higher levels of anti-wear components only provides "longer" wear protection, NOT "more" wear protection. And the important thing is that testing proves that there is NO LOSS of wear protection in used oil, even though the anti-wear component levels drop SIGNIFICANTLY due to normal depletion over time. But, the consistent improvement of the used oil's wear protection capability, does indicate a change in the oil as it ages. The new and used oils no doubt came from different batches of oil, because of the purchasing and testing time differences. I've tested two USED oils so far, and both times the used oil final psi values have been noticeably and consistently higher that the new oil testing performed on those oils. Those test results were averaged and came out to the final 112,992 psi value shown here. Repeated testing of this used oil showed consistent values within a few percent of this posted value. The wear protection capability psi value shown here is 13% "higher" than the wear protection capability psi value for this oil when it was brand new oil. ![]() "USED" 5W30 Chevron Supreme, API SN conventional with 5,000 miles on it = 112,992 psi For once, a product’s hype turns out to be true.Ģ. The bottle says, “No leading synthetic oil provides better wear protection”. I have not been able to find this oil with the latest API SN certification. The higher the psi value, the better the protection:ġ.ĕW30 Pennzoil Ultra, API SM synthetic = 115,612 psi Another thing to consider is a dry sump.Ĭheck out LIC's setup - these guys know what's up:Here's the "Wear Protection" ranking of all the oils I've tested over the past year. LIC sells their custom radiator/oil cooler setup which is very sweet, but it's over $2,000 (which actually isn't that much if you compare the cost to other alternatives). Problem with a good oil cooler is it's expensive. It was a hot day, maybe 130F on the track. I believe that car did have an oil cooler and even then driving style had to be adjusted. I was in a GT30R'ed STi at the track, you would watch the oil temperature gauge and basically use it as an indicator of when to slow down - we'd do one hot lap, then have to slow down and let it cool off. Coolant and oil temperatures aren't that different anyway.Ī high-powered, tracked Subaru will very much need an external oil cooler. It'll allow the oil to get up to operating temperature quicker. The stock unit isn't really an oil cooler, it's more of an oil heater if you will. ![]() ![]() The extra capacity will give you some more oil to heat up before things go bad. Other consideration you could have is an aftermarket oil pan. So in summary, really depends on your usage of the vehicle. And last and the biggest reason for me, it's a ton more plumbing to develop a leak. Sure they're cheap, but by the time you do all the hoses and fittings, it adds up fairly fast. Doing an oil cooler can become awfully expensive as well. Reasons for not doing it? Well, oil does need to be up to temp, so extra cooling can hurt you if you're not running an oil thermostat as well to control flow through the cooler. If you're on the track (as in road racing) and constantly pounding heat into it, then you will heat soak it, and once it gets above a certain temp, you're certainly asking for a spun rod bearing. For just drag passes or the occassional hard pull, it won't be enough to heat soak it. There's quite a bit of thermal mass in to the complete engine/coolant system and oil itself has quite a bit. If you plan on taking it road racing or time attack, then I'd 100% do it. If you're just drag racing w/ it or messing around on the street occassionally I probably won't bother. ![]()
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